Ouest France Bistro

Ouest France started as a crêperie and grew into something much more interesting: a small, properly Breton-feeling bistro tucked into a side street off Mornington's Main, with a blue-and-white awning that you walk past without noticing until someone points it out. The galettes are genuine, proper buckwheat, proper garnishes, and the breakfast menu leans honest French: croissants, jambon-beurre, eggs and country bread.

The coffee is better than most of the more-visible Main Street cafés, which is reason enough for a morning detour. The room is small and fills quickly on weekends, but the owners keep the pace civil even when there is a queue at the door. This is the kind of place that earns its position in a town that otherwise does coffee and brunch as a commodity.

Go early on Saturday. Order the galette with ham and gruyère and a second coffee. The side street is the point.