.journal-page{*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:24px}a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}a:hover{color:var(--blue)}button,input,select{font:inherit}button,a,input,select{-webkit-tap-highlight-color:transparent}:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--blue);outline-offset:5px}img{display:block;width:100%;height:auto;object-fit:cover}h1,h2,h3,p,figure{margin:0}h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:400;line-height:1.12;letter-spacing:-.025em}a:hover h2,a:hover h3,h3 a:hover{text-decoration:underline;text-decoration-thickness:1px;text-underline-offset:5px}.wrap{width:min(1280px,calc(100% - 80px));margin-inline:auto}.eyebrow{font:600 11px/1.5 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.105em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--blue)}.meta{color:var(--muted);font-size:11px;line-height:1.75;letter-spacing:0}.meta span{margin:0 4px}.text-link{font:600 12px/1.6 var(--sans);display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:20px;color:var(--blue);padding:10px 0;min-height:44px}.text-link:hover{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px}.text-link span{font-size:20px;line-height:1}.skip{position:fixed;top:-100px;left:20px;z-index:10;padding:12px;background:#fff}.skip:focus{top:12px}.review-strip{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;padding:7px 40px;background:var(--sand);font:500 10px/1.5 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.06em}.review-strip a{color:var(--blue);text-transform:none}.masthead{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:32px;min-height:114px}.brand{font:700 33px/.93 var(--sans);letter-spacing:-1.8px;display:inline-block}.brand>span{display:block}.brand-dot{color:var(--blue)}.brand-note{font-size:11px;line-height:1.6;color:var(--muted);border-left:1px solid var(--rule);padding-left:25px}.header-actions{margin-left:auto;display:flex;gap:28px;align-items:center;font-size:12px;font-weight:500}.search-link span{font-size:22px;margin-left:10px}.note-link{border-bottom:1px solid var(--blue);padding:9px 0}.note-link span{margin-left:18px;color:var(--blue)}.site-nav{border-block:1px solid var(--rule)}.site-nav>.wrap{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:35px}.site-nav a{font-size:11px;font-weight:600;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.07em;min-height:49px;display:flex;align-items:center;position:relative}.site-nav a[aria-current=page]{color:var(--blue)}.site-nav a[aria-current=page]:after{content:"";position:absolute;bottom:-1px;height:3px;background:var(--blue);width:100%}.site-nav .saved{margin-left:auto;color:var(--muted);font-size:10px}.mobile-menu{display:none}.journal-heading{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:flex-end;padding:37px 0 27px}.journal-heading .eyebrow{color:var(--muted);font-size:10px;margin-bottom:12px}h1{font-size:76px;line-height:1;letter-spacing:-3px}h1 span{color:var(--blue)}.intro{font:400 17px/1.6 var(--serif);padding-bottom:4px}.topic-nav{display:flex;gap:28px;border-top:1px solid var(--ink);border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);align-items:center;margin-bottom:34px}.topic-nav a{font-size:11px;padding:14px 0;min-height:44px}.topic-nav a:first-child{color:var(--blue)}.topic-nav a:last-child{margin-left:auto}.opening{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 300px;gap:40px}.cover{min-width:0;text-align:center}.cover-image{position:relative}.cover-image img{aspect-ratio:16/9}.image-tag{position:absolute;bottom:20px;left:20px;background:#fff;padding:9px 13px;font-size:10px;font-weight:600;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em}.cover-copy{padding:22px 22px 0}.cover h2{font-size:48px;line-height:1.05;margin-top:10px}.cover-dek{max-width:580px;margin:16px auto 14px;font-size:14px;line-height:1.7;padding:0 12px}.cover .text-link{margin-top:8px}.editor-rail{border-top:3px solid var(--blue);padding-top:19px}.rail-heading h2{font-size:29px;margin-top:10px}.rail-heading>p:last-child{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin:10px 0 22px}.rail-story{display:flex;gap:15px;border-top:1px solid var(--rule);padding:22px 0}.story-number{font:italic 24px/1.2 var(--serif);color:#78746c;width:24px;flex-shrink:0}.rail-story .eyebrow{font-size:9px}.rail-story h3{font-size:24px;line-height:1.15;margin:8px 0}.rail-story div>p:not(.eyebrow):not(.meta){font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.6;margin:9px 0}.rail-story .meta{font-size:10px}.rail-more{border-top:1px solid var(--rule);width:100%;justify-content:space-between;padding-top:18px}.section-space{margin-top:80px}.section-heading{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:flex-end;gap:24px;margin-bottom:30px}.section-heading h2{font-size:34px;margin-top:9px}.section-heading .text-link{flex-shrink:0}.food-section{position:relative;padding-top:30px}.food-section:before{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0 0 auto;height:240px;background:var(--sand);z-index:-1}.food-section .section-heading{position:relative}.food-section .section-heading:before{content:"";position:absolute;left:-15px;top:-12px;width:24px;height:24px;border-top:3px solid var(--blue);border-left:3px solid var(--blue)}.weighted-trio{display:grid;grid-template-columns:3fr 4.8fr 3fr;gap:28px;align-items:start}.story img{aspect-ratio:3/2}.weighted-trio>.story:not(.large){padding-top:44px}.story .eyebrow{margin-top:17px;font-size:10px}.story h3{font-size:27px;line-height:1.15;margin-top:7px}.story.large h3{font-size:35px}.story.large img{aspect-ratio:4/3}.story .dek{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:11px;line-height:1.7}.story .meta{margin-top:13px;font-size:10px}.section-number{font-size:10px;color:var(--muted);letter-spacing:.08em}.coast-feature{position:relative;padding-bottom:30px}.coast-image{display:block;width:100%}.coast-image img{height:470px;object-position:50% 55%}.coast-copy{position:absolute;right:40px;bottom:0;width:420px;background:#fff;padding:33px 36px 23px}.coast-copy h3{font-size:37px;line-height:1.12;margin:13px 0}.coast-copy>p:not(.eyebrow):not(.meta){font-size:14px;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.7;margin-bottom:17px}.coast-copy .text-link{margin-top:10px}.image-credit{font-size:9px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:10px;max-width:calc(100% - 465px)}.image-credit a{text-decoration:underline}.places-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:28px}.places-grid .story h3{font-size:29px}.newsletter{background:var(--sand);padding:44px 0}.newsletter-inner{display:grid;grid-template-columns:110px 1fr auto;gap:40px;align-items:center}.note-mark{font:italic 66px/.9 var(--serif);border:1px solid #99958e;outline:1px solid #99958e;outline-offset:5px;width:95px;height:110px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;text-align:center;transform:rotate(-5deg);color:var(--blue)}.note-mark span{font:500 8px/1 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.08em;margin-top:12px}.newsletter h2{font-size:40px;margin:8px 0 12px}.newsletter p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.75}.button{display:flex;gap:30px;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;padding:14px 20px;background:var(--blue);color:#fff;min-height:48px;font-size:12px;font-weight:500}.button:hover{background:#0b2378;color:#fff}.newsletter-action p{font-size:9px!important;margin-top:10px}.archive{margin-bottom:80px}.collection-total{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted)}.archive-tools{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.8fr 1fr 1fr;gap:20px;background:var(--sand);padding:24px}.archive-tools label{display:block;font-size:11px;font-weight:500;margin-bottom:8px}.archive-tools input,.archive-tools select{border:1px solid #767676;background:#fff;color:var(--ink);width:100%;min-width:0;border-radius:0;height:46px;padding:0 12px;font-size:12px}.archive-status{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);padding:17px 0}.archive-status button{border:0;background:none;color:var(--blue);font-size:11px;cursor:pointer;min-height:44px}.archive-row{display:grid;grid-template-columns:104px minmax(0,1fr) 140px 20px;gap:22px;align-items:center;padding:23px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--rule)}.archive-row time{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted)}.archive-row h3{font-size:21px;line-height:1.35;letter-spacing:-.01em}.archive-topic{font-size:10px;color:var(--muted)}.archive-row>span:last-child{color:var(--blue)}.load-more{display:block;background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--ink);padding:12px 30px;margin:28px auto 0;min-height:46px;font-size:12px;cursor:pointer}.load-more:hover{background:var(--sand)}.load-more span{margin-left:30px}.archive-footnote{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);text-align:center;margin-top:24px}.archive-footnote a{text-decoration:underline}#empty-state{padding:32px;background:var(--sand)}[hidden]{display:none!important}.footer{background:#f5f2ea;border-top:1px solid var(--rule);padding:48px 0 25px}.footer-main{display:grid;grid-template-columns:2fr 1fr 1fr 1.3fr;gap:48px}.footer .brand{font-size:32px}.footer-main>div>p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin:19px 0;line-height:1.7}.footer-main>div>a:not(.brand){display:block;font-size:12px;margin-top:12px}.footer .eyebrow{font-size:10px;color:var(--ink)}.footer-note>p:not(.eyebrow){font:23px/1.3 var(--serif)!important;color:var(--ink)!important}.footer-note a{color:var(--blue)}.footer-bottom{border-top:1px solid var(--rule);margin-top:38px;padding-top:22px;color:var(--muted);font-size:10px}.footer-bottom>p{max-width:810px;line-height:1.8}.footer-bottom>div{display:flex;gap:24px;margin-top:22px}.footer-bottom>div>span{margin-right:auto}.review-content{max-width:850px;margin:60px auto;padding:0 24px}.review-content h1{font-size:48px}.review-content h2{font-size:28px;margin:38px 0 12px}.review-content p,.review-content li{font-size:14px;line-height:1.8;margin-top:12px}.review-content table{font-size:12px;border-collapse:collapse;width:100%}.review-content td,.review-content th{text-align:left;padding:12px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);overflow-wrap:anywhere}.review-content a{color:var(--blue);text-decoration:underline}.review-content .button{color:#fff;text-decoration:none;margin-top:25px}@media(min-width:1440px){.opening{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 320px;gap:40px}}@media(max-width:1100px){.wrap{width:calc(100% - 48px)}.site-nav>.wrap{gap:24px}.brand-note{display:none}.opening{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 280px;gap:28px}.cover h2{font-size:42px}.rail-story h3{font-size:22px}.cover-dek{font-size:13px}.weighted-trio{gap:24px;grid-template-columns:1fr 1.5fr 1fr}.story h3{font-size:24px}.story.large h3{font-size:30px}.newsletter-inner{grid-template-columns:90px 1fr;gap:28px}.newsletter-action{grid-column:2}.newsletter-action .button{width:max-content}.footer-main{gap:30px}.archive-row{grid-template-columns:90px 1fr 120px 20px;gap:16px}}@media(max-width:767px){.wrap{width:calc(100% - 32px)}.review-strip{font-size:8px;padding:7px 16px;letter-spacing:.03em}.masthead{min-height:86px;gap:14px;justify-content:space-between}.brand{font-size:25px;letter-spacing:-1.2px}.header-actions{margin:0}.header-actions .search-link{display:none}.note-link{font-size:10px}.note-link span{margin-left:6px}.mobile-menu{display:block;border:0;background:none;padding:8px;width:44px;height:44px;margin-left:-10px;font-size:20px}.site-nav{display:none}.site-nav.open{display:block}.site-nav>.wrap{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:0 20px;padding:8px 0}.site-nav a{min-height:44px}.site-nav .saved{margin:0}.journal-heading{padding:26px 0 22px;display:block}.journal-heading .eyebrow{font-size:8px;margin-bottom:11px}h1{font-size:58px;letter-spacing:-2px}.intro{font-size:15px;line-height:1.5;margin-top:13px}.intro br{display:none}.topic-nav{gap:0 20px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-bottom:23px;padding:5px 0}.topic-nav a{font-size:10px;padding:10px 0;min-height:38px}.topic-nav a:last-child{margin-left:0}.opening{display:block}.cover-image img{aspect-ratio:8/5}.image-tag{left:12px;bottom:12px;font-size:8px;padding:7px 10px}.cover-copy{padding:20px 0 0}.cover .eyebrow{font-size:9px}.cover h2{font-size:37px;line-height:1.08;margin-top:10px}.desktop-break{display:none}.cover-dek{font-size:13px;line-height:1.7;margin:14px auto;padding:0 5px}.cover .meta{font-size:10px}.editor-rail{margin-top:32px;padding-top:20px}.rail-heading h2{font-size:29px}.rail-heading>p:last-child{margin-bottom:20px}.rail-story{padding:19px 0;gap:17px}.rail-story h3{font-size:25px}.rail-story div>p:not(.eyebrow):not(.meta){font-size:13px}.rail-story .meta{font-size:10px}.section-space{margin-top:48px}.section-heading{display:block;margin-bottom:24px}.section-heading h2{font-size:30px;line-height:1.15}.section-heading .text-link{margin-top:8px}.food-section{padding-top:26px}.food-section:before{height:280px}.food-section .section-heading:before{left:-7px;top:-10px;width:16px;height:16px;border-width:2px}.weighted-trio{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:28px}.weighted-trio .story.large{order:-1}.weighted-trio>.story:not(.large){padding-top:0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr}.story.large img{aspect-ratio:3/2}.story h3,.story.large h3{font-size:28px}.story .dek{font-size:13px}.story .meta{font-size:10px}.weighted-trio>.story:not(.large) .story-link{display:grid;grid-template-columns:105px 1fr;gap:0 16px}.weighted-trio>.story:not(.large) img{grid-row:1/3;width:105px;height:92px;aspect-ratio:auto}.weighted-trio>.story:not(.large) .eyebrow{margin-top:0;align-self:end;font-size:9px}.weighted-trio>.story:not(.large) h3{font-size:24px;margin-top:5px}.weighted-trio>.story:not(.large)>.dek{margin-left:121px;margin-top:9px}.weighted-trio>.story:not(.large)>.meta{margin-left:121px}.section-number{display:none}.coast-feature{padding:0}.coast-image img{height:260px}.coast-copy{position:static;width:100%;padding:25px 23px;background:var(--sand)}.coast-copy h3{font-size:32px}.coast-copy .meta{font-size:10px}.image-credit{max-width:none;font-size:8px;line-height:1.7}.places-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:32px}.places-grid .story h3{font-size:29px}.newsletter{padding:30px 0}.newsletter-inner{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:0}.note-mark{display:none}.newsletter h2{font-size:35px}.newsletter p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:13px}.newsletter-action{grid-column:auto;margin-top:22px}.newsletter-action .button{width:100%}.newsletter-action p{text-align:center}.archive{margin-bottom:48px}.collection-total{display:block;margin-top:14px}.archive-tools{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:16px;padding:18px}.search-field{grid-column:1/-1}.archive-tools input,.archive-tools select{font-size:16px;height:46px;padding:0 8px}.archive-tools label{font-size:10px}.archive-row{grid-template-columns:1fr 20px;gap:7px 12px;padding:20px 0}.archive-row time{grid-column:1;font-size:10px}.archive-row h3{grid-column:1;grid-row:2;font-size:23px}.archive-topic{grid-column:1;grid-row:3;font-size:9px}.archive-row>span:last-child{grid-column:2;grid-row:2}.archive-footnote{line-height:1.8}.footer{padding-top:35px}.footer-main{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:28px 20px}.footer-main>div:first-child{grid-column:1/-1}.footer-main>div:first-child>p{margin-top:13px}.footer-note{grid-column:1/-1}.footer-bottom{margin-top:28px}.footer-bottom>div{flex-wrap:wrap;gap:12px 20px}.footer-bottom>div>span{width:100%}.review-content h1{font-size:38px}.review-content table{display:block;overflow:auto}}.meta{font-size:12px}.story .meta,.rail-story .meta{font-size:11px}.topic-nav a{min-height:44px}.header-actions a{min-height:44px;display:inline-flex;align-items:center}@media(min-width:768px){.weighted-trio>.large{grid-column:2;grid-row:1}.weighted-trio>.story:nth-child(2){grid-column:1;grid-row:1}.weighted-trio>.story:nth-child(3){grid-column:3;grid-row:1}}@media(max-width:767px){.cover .meta,.story .meta,.rail-story .meta,.coast-copy .meta{font-size:11px}}@media(min-width:768px){.masthead{min-height:90px}.journal-heading{padding:24px 0 20px}.journal-heading h1{font-size:64px}.topic-nav{margin-bottom:26px}.cover-image img{max-height:400px}.cover-copy{padding-top:18px}.cover h2{font-size:44px}.cover h2 br{display:none}}@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}}.review-return{display:block;text-align:center;font:11px Inter,Arial,sans-serif;margin:0 16px 35px;color:#595959}@media(max-width:767px){padding-bottom:30px}--ink:#191919;--muted:#595959;--blue:#11309c;--sand:#f5f2ea;--rule:#d8d8d5;--serif:"Source Serif 4",Georgia,serif;--sans:Inter,Arial,sans-serif;margin:0;color:var(--ink);font:16px/1.55 var(--sans);background:#fff;display:block;color:#191919;font:16px/1.55 Inter,Arial,sans-serif;text-align:left;padding-bottom:1px;background:#fff}.journal-page [hidden]{display:none!important}.journal-page{isolation:isolate}.journal-page section[id]{scroll-margin-top:calc(var(--masthead-h,160px) + 24px)}.journal-page .image-credit{max-width:none}.journal-page .story figure{margin:0}.journal-page .story .image-credit{font-size:9px;margin-top:7px}.journal-page .cover-copy h2{margin-bottom:0}.journal-page :is(h1,h2,h3){color:#191919}.journal-page .cover{padding:0;background:none;min-height:0}.journal-page .cover img{aspect-ratio:16/9}.journal-page .outdoors-feature .cover{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.4fr 1fr;align-items:center;text-align:left;gap:30px}.journal-page .outdoors-feature .cover h2{font-size:37px}.journal-page .outdoors-feature .cover-copy,.journal-page .outdoors-feature .cover-dek{padding:0}.journal-page .picks-note{font-size:12px;text-align:center;margin-top:24px}@media(max-width:767px){.journal-page .outdoors-feature .cover{display:block}.journal-page .outdoors-feature .cover-copy{padding-top:20px}}.editor-note[data-astro-cid-puzw3ae3]{padding-block:1rem;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);font:.82rem/1.65 var(--sans);color:var(--muted)}.editor-note[data-astro-cid-puzw3ae3] p[data-astro-cid-puzw3ae3]{max-width:90ch}.editor-note[data-astro-cid-puzw3ae3] strong[data-astro-cid-puzw3ae3]{color:var(--ink);font-weight:600}.people-section[data-astro-cid-puzw3ae3] .story{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) minmax(0,1.25fr);gap:2rem;align-items:center;max-width:60rem}.people-section[data-astro-cid-puzw3ae3] figure{margin:0}.people-section[data-astro-cid-puzw3ae3] .story img{aspect-ratio:3/2}.people-section[data-astro-cid-puzw3ae3] .section-heading p{margin-top:.75rem;max-width:65ch;font-size:.9rem;color:var(--muted)}@media(max-width:40rem){.people-section[data-astro-cid-puzw3ae3] .story{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:1rem}}